Now it can't get the mixture it's trying to suck in because the butterfly valve is closed, blocking the air flow. What is the function of that screw? Next take the tops off and remove the long screws that connect the slide lifters to the throttle shaft. I thought that might make a difference. The standard settings offer maximum performance for closed course competition -- after removal of the exhaust diffuser and noise suppressor. It started up immediately and idols very well.
During the intake stroke the engine's piston descends in the cylinder. So these numbers are only to illustrate the relative difference in volume from idle to redline. Installed new plugs in the other 3 cylinders. As for the accelerator pump at the time I did mine it was all I could find. They allow air to pre mix with the gas before it enters the carb throats. It is not necessary to remove the carburetor to change the slow jet.
At idle it's around 11 times a second. It also houses the accelerator pump and main fuel supply. Also gonna look at the accelerator pump adjustement per the manual. I did a google search and found this process, but it has you doing it off the bike: Is this method while carbs are installed on the bike effected by tubing length or angle when doing the comparison or is it just a matter of gravity and the gas exerting fluid pressure when the tubing is placed at the float height? Unscrew the main jet only, leaving the needle jet holder in place. Screw in the new main jet and replace the float bowl. Upon inspection I found one of these missing…… oh wise motopysco please bestow thyn knowledge to me what this is…and maybe if you know where to find one? Since fluids seek their own level the level in the tube and the float bowl should be equal. Primary type carbs use a solid jet, no pin holes.
There are not two washers even though I gave two numbers. Even though its only mounted one one cylinder, it supplies all four carbs it helps to reduce the lean stumble that results from a sudden inrush of air when you twist the throttle as fast as you can. You and your 400lb baby the bike, not the other love of your life , are still rolling with inertia, keeping the engine revs high. Taking the float bowl off in the way outlined above prevents damage to the float tangs, and will preclude any fuel leakage caused by floats not being able to move through their full travel due to distortion. The Dynojet needle has 5 grooves, 1 at the top, to 5 closest to the needle tip. This particular carb is a Keihin and has only two carb bowl screws, most have four. I know all 4 cylinder are getting good spark and really think the problem is carb related.
Carefully drive out this rolled pin to remove the return springÂ and remove the shaft completely from all the carbs. The only other thing it could be is the carburetor, after all I have done. Is there other parts that that I should replace while I am at it That Partsnmore kit looks pretty decent and is definitely priced right. The bowl is refitted in the same way, and at the same angle as it was removed. This is great for tarmac cruising and feeling warm and fuzzy about doing your part to reduce global warming while pocketing some spare change.
Do not take the carburetors off the rails to keep them in sync as you perform these steps. If adjustment is needed, bend the metal tab on the float arm until correct height is obtained. Sorry for the questions, just never done this before. As the vacuum in the top chamber causes the diaphragm valve to raise in the depression, the needle which is attached to the valve, is pulled further out of the needle jet. At this time I do not have any videos of repair work on my youtube channel. But the single best reason I have found to go to this extreme is that there is almost nothing else that will make an old motorcycle run like new again the way a complete carburetor refurbishment will.
Removal of the float bowl, and fuel leaks from the float vent tube, seemingly causing particular concern. Does it run on 2 after opening the throttle? Not flaming or anything as I have seen mention of Banshees melting down on a ten second dyno run, just trying to squeeze one more pony out. Thinking these guys weren't seated far enough into the carb bodies I tightened them a little too much and mushroomed them a little where they push against the needle jets. Wonder why 'K'awasaki added the K. Make sure you wind the throttle return spring up enough to close the slides when released, and always use some form of top quality name brand thread locker on these little screws holding the butterflies in place. I do have one more question, is the fuel valve seat replacable, or do you just change the needle, I can't figure out how to get the seat out, or even if it comes out. If you can discipline yourself to control the throttle so that you don't bog your engine, then you want a conventional slide carb.
Back it out two full turns. Since I never had gas in the carbs yet, I don't know if they are working or not, however, by looking at the inside of the carbs, I would have to say that it has not been very long since someone cleaned them up. I really did not plan on having the bike down that long but if I were sure they would have them by then, I would wait. I will set the float heights and try the homemade manometer. Put the bike on the center stand or otherwise make it level.
If I gas it too quick it will die. This helps prevent that lean backfire that occurs on some motorcycles when you suddenly let off of the gas. One thing that I noticed is that if the tangs are not set at the same heights in relation to their respective floats then all bets are off. If there is any sign of damage or wear, the affected parts will need to be replaced. Get a gauge or ruler and measure right where the carb body meets the float bowl to the level in the hose.