So keep all together in the same sequence. I'm thinking that if I put a T-Piece in line I can fit a low pressure alarm, so I don't drive with all my oil gone in the event of a system failure. The interesting bit the steel sleeve for the intermediate shaft. So getting them myself is a no go. Some owners still prefer to have a centre diff lock which can be retrofitted on the grounds that it gives a little more driver control and ability in some more extreme off-road situations. With the cover plate off - you can see the bearing track carrier.
The shifter housing is now welded on, as you can see in the image above. No traction unless diff lock is selected. C 100+kph with slight climb. I may build my own special tool but if there is a secret let me know. But I could be wrong. It turned out to be an easy job. The service manual that's going to be the most help for you will be the overhaul manual for the t case.
I too sarted th rebuild project last year and found out I needed some shims to et the tolerances correct on the input shaft. On the other hand, on level surfaces and accelerating through stop and go traffic, it's very snappy. I'm afraid I won't have time to do a comprehensive pictures and text guide a la Les, but if anyone wants any specific pictures please say so here and I will try to take and then post them. The linkage is made with the highest quality hemispherical joints for long service and smooth operation. I think I spent 4 hours last weekend shimming,measuring,disassembling,reassembling the differential If you're just doing bearings and seals you shouldn't have to mess with that, but I did a 1 piece cross pin and new thrust washers only specialty tool I've needed so far is a fish scale You should keep in mind that robertf has rebuilt steering gearboxes and other crazy stuff. Thanks for the write-up Marco, it's just great and timely for me! Also included are a new drain plug and tap to install it and comprehensive instructions. If there's any sign of oil leaking past the seal, then replace that too.
Apply the handbrake hard, and use a breaker bar or similar leverage to undo it. Get in a position where you can move the transfer box back and off the gearbox shaft, then onto the ground. Seeing the viscosity of oil is measured at 100C , I would think that 95 is quite cool and you could get to 130C with a good synthetic with no problems. Cheers Marco Not sure which nut you want to undo. I figured a large adjustable would work but I haven't found one large enough. It's in great condition really apart from the fact that it's been sat in a barn gathering cobwebs for the last 15 years.
Our first kit is approximately a 30% reduction is gearing for low range. In our opinion, one of the best if not the best part of a Land Rover drive train. You guys and Ashcroft are incredible. If you simply changed your ring and pinion you would cut your highway speed and raise your engine rpms on the highway and you wouldn't get anywhere near a crawl ratio of 116:1. The gears are shifted electronically by the engine management computer.
The stock crawl ratio in a Defender is roughly 40:1. I just started to put back some parts yesterday as I do want to finish the box this Month. Otherwise, with the transmission floor cover removed for access, check the lock nut holding the operating arm to the pivot shaft is tight, and that the arm is correctly located on the shaft. If both these are out and the box is in pieces on the bench then it's easy enough to get the intermediate shaft in just by hand. The selector is not supplied, we can advise you need a movement of 27mm of the selector rod from one range to the other.
The downside of the centre differential is that, if a wheel on one axle loses grip and spins, all the transmission torque will be sent to that wheel it takes the path of least resistance. Land Rover removed the activating mechanism for the central differential lock starting with the 1999 Discovery 2. It may not look like much, but you'd be surprised just how much that little black lever can do for your Rover in off road situations! This is a normal effect of driving with diff lock engaged, especially when reaching firmer ground where the tyres are less able to slip to release transmission wind-up. I had a small puddlle of what looked like transmission fluid accumulating under the truck where it sat. Fit the 10mm studs, used in place of the bolts. Unfortunately there are many internal differences such as tooth counts, gear cross sectional differences, dog clutch teeth profiles etc.
Take care not to mix up the parts. The linkages may be stiff or seized due to lack of use. However, when we drained the transfer box, it looked like the same red-tinted stuff that came out of the transmission. It transfers the drive from the gearbox across and out at the front and rear of the transfer casing to drive the propshafts to the front and rear axles. As a result they are very durable.